Harbor Lights, Hospital Tour and Heading Home

Harbor Lights, hospital Tour, and Heading Home

After a lovely day with Frank and 

Ringo, touring Lantau Island and visiting the Big Buddha(270 steps up), we packed up and joined Pikto for our final Chinese dinner.  The hotel restaurant served a variety of delicious items, including squid and scallops.  It was a festive way to wind up this long and complex trip.  Dinner was followed by a walk along the Harbor with Lettie and Tony to view the spectacular architecture and amazing lights of the Hong Kong  and Kowloon waterfronts.  In such a short time, Lettie and Tony have become good friends and colleagues. 

Having learned early that our flight home was delayed significantly, Lettie arranged for me to meet with the chief geriatrician to have a tour and learn about their hospital and programs.  The planned 30 minutes turned into two hours as I learned about their hospital and out patient approach, collaboration with their ortho colleagues, day hospital, and community nursing home service.  For over 20 years they have had a team of nurses and doctors visiting patients in nursing homes .  When their patients are seen in the ER, they are assessed first by the Geri team, before an admission decision is made.  They face many of the challenges we face with control of costs, readmit rates, and infection control.  Despite the very old facilities, and the cramped quarters, (8 patients to a room), they appear to have strong programming addressing the basic geriatric issues, and are providing excellent care at a fraction of the cost we have incurred.  Lots to be learned.  I also had a tour of their Chinese medicine wing, where patients are seen by Chinese medicine practitioners for herbal remedies, as well as massage and acupuncture.  Something over 60% of their patients utilize ,both Western and traditional Chinese approaches.  A visit to their herbal dispensing pharmacy was amazing.

We bid goodbye to Hong Kong, and Phil, who stays on for the rest of the week and headed for the long trip home.  I just woke up from 8 hours of sleep and we are almost in San Francisco .  Hope to arrive Denver this evening.  It has been a long, complicated, and challenging trip.  It will take some time to process everything we have experienced.  Each of us returns to the States with different perspectives and personal changes.  I recognize that for some, India posed physical and emotional challenges that were impossible to overcome.  Hong Kong is amazingly complex in history and current development, and was quite a stark contrast to India.

For me personally, The work In India provided the opportunity to live and work in a completely different culture, with different values and goals(as well as foods and lifestyles) and to be humbled by the ability of both children and adults to maintain close family relationships, and happiness in situations that some of us from the West might find unbearable.  I will never forget the smiles and laughter of the children of Chennai, nor will I forget the willingness of a small group of Westerners to get their hands dirty(feet as well), by jumping in teaching, playing, painting, and building boxes.  Waging peace, one person, one day at a time.

With love, and appreciation to all of you, almost home now

Barbara

A Day in Hong Kong and Phil goes to workThe

Phil headed off for his first day of teaching while we set out with our guide Frank and driver Ringo.  In this well orchestrated day we covered incredible ground, seeking the sights of both Kowloon and Hong Kong.  Highlights included:

• The walled city of Kowloon with its deep history and gardens
• The Chinese garden and magnificent nunnery and temple
• A ferry ride across the harbour
• Lunch and shopping at Stanley Market
• a sampan ride in Aberdeen to visit the huge yachts juxtaposed against The old wooden floating fishing village
• A trip up to the Peak with magnificent views 

And, finally dinner and a stroll through the Ladies Market. With its overwhelming neon signs, merchandise and people everywhere. It was a day filled with history,great views, and interesting people.

Meantime, Phil had a stimulating day, teaching the pediatricians about diabetes and learning about their hospital and their system.

Hard to believe, but tomorrow brings my last day before the long flight home on Wednesday.  Phil stays on for the rest of the week of lecturing and rounding.

We hear there is a blizzard in store for everyone, please stay safe and warm,

With love from Hong Kong

Barbara

Exhausted and well fed

Seemed like we had just fallen asleep when the alarm went off at 6am for our early morning hike withYouth diabetes Action.  Great to see Pikto who picked us up and shepherded us along to the opening ceremony, introducing Phil as a big expert from the USA along the way.  We got to see the south side of Hong Kong Island, with its lush and rolling hills and beaches, shake the Health Minister,s hand, and do a 5K hike.  And the day had just begun!

The rest of the day involved driving around Hong Kong with Pikto, a quick visit to his apartment,a crazy dim sun lunch, with fabulous food(no curry in sight!) and several more harbour  hikes.  The day ended with a luscious dinner with Phil's host  for the week, Lettie and her husband Tony.  We dined at the elegant Hong Kong Jockey Club, where we over indulged on a variety of Chinese delicacies.  The conversation was wide ranging, including politics, Obamacare, childcare, children and grandchildren.  What a warm and lovely way to end our first night in Hong Kong.  Despite the outrageously disparate settings: a small, worn guesthouse in Chennai, versus a landmark of prior British colonial rule, evenings together over food and drink, with new and old friends have many similarities.  We are so lucky to have experienced such hospitality in Chennai with Stephen and Sheeba, and now here in Hong Kong.

Tomorrow brings Phil's first day of rounding and 3 lectures, while the rest of us enjoy a tour of Hong Kong.

Love to all of you
Barbara

Leaving India behind,arriving Hong Kong

We got up really early to set off for the airport.  We said last goodbyes to the remaining team and headed off.  The Chennai airport is modern,large, and expansive, but with plenty of time allotted , we had a few moments to spend our last rupees before heading off on our first leg to Kuala Lumpur.  After an intense 2 weeks living in Chennai, it was strange to be leaving.

After a long, but uneventful two flights, with movies and finally a beer, we arrived in Hong Kong, where we were met and whisked away to our hotel.  We have had only a fleeting glimpse of this enormous metropolis, with huge skinny skyscrapers everywhere.  Our hotel is lovely, with modern furnishings, soft pillows, quilts, real showers, and hot water.  Funny what one finds  important after having spent the last two weeks in much less comfortable accommodations and surroundings.  Spotless around here so far!

A few hours of sleep and we head out with Pikto for a local diabetes walk.

On another note we were stunned this am with the news from Paris.  So scarey that it seems there is violence everywhere.  We felt lucky to be safe and not to encounter any significant travel delays.

More when we get rested and settled.

With love from Hong Kong,
Barbara

Out of India, on to Hong Kong

Rain pounded and lashed again all night.  I tried the mantra " lucky team"  to keep my attitude positive.  Facing our last day as another rain day for PRS school was daunting: we had so looked forward to return to the kids for more classes and photos.  The monsoon rains in the morning prevented that opportunity.  All schools closed again for rain.  No worries we headed to SEAM, this time walking through ankle deep water to get there.  The boys, as usual, happy and cheerful to have us.  Puzzles, flash cards, coloring and games ensued.  Kathy, Phil and the older
Boys worked steadily on finishing 9 out of 10 boxes.  Lots of excitement as the boys learned how to wield screwdrivers and drills.

The evening brought our final celebration and goodbyes with the boys.  I donned my sari for the event.  Thank yous, dances, cards and songs(as well as a few tears) with earnest requests by the boys for our return next year.  A final restaurant dinner and we find ourselves packed and ready for an early morning departure.

Southern India is not quaint or easy to understand.  For some on the team, the poverty, lifestyle, and filth have been intolerable. Others have found hope in the happiness and contentment of the children and adults, despite what many from the West might find intolerable conditions.  Some have found Chennai to be a big, busy, impersonal city.  Others have found our neighborhood to be filled with interesting nooks and crannies, and now familiar and friendly faces.

I have found a bit of everything:

•  amazement at the overwhelming sensory displays of colors, smells,sights and sounds
• Gratitude for Stephen and Sheeba who are the heart and soul of the program, it has been an honor to serve under their leadership 
• Fellowship and friendship with the rest of the team, new friends and old
• Fondness for our local neighborhood and now familiar routes through the streets of Chennai
• Satisfaction with a job well done teaching (and playing)
• And.....most importantly, great affection for the children at PRS and the boys at SEAM(guess who was crying?)

As always I am so grateful to everyone at home and at work, carrying on while I am away.  I am deeply appreciative.

Next stop Hong Kong, for a few days of relaxation before our return to the States.  More from there,

With love from Chennai 

Barbara

We are the lucky team

Lashing wind and rain overnight resulted in muddy roads and flooding(again) and thus the surprise and disappointment of another rain day.  We had been looking forward to seeing the kids at PRS school.  Instead we headed to SEAM to work with the boys and on the boxes.  We received a rowdy greeting and set about with coloring, flash cards and reading.  By late morning all had cabin fever so I suggested some gentle exercise(yoga perhaps?). This resulted in a raucous 30 minutes of cartwheels, somersaults and head stands with a bit of break dancing Thrown in.  The boys we intent on outdoing themselves and each other.

After lunch some headed  into the city to The famous textile, and jewelry stores.  This proves to be not only an amazing retail experience but a total cultural immersion.  We were (as we have been most of the trip) the only foreigners.  We were wowed by the Indians love for gold in its biggest versions as well as splendid  color and fabrics.  The textile store Was Like Macy's  on steroids.

Return to SEAM in the late afternoon revealed that someone had donated 15 boxes of firecrackers for the boys, making it impossible to get them to concentrate on reading and writing.  Thus we watched sparklers and worked on the boys boxes.

After dinner included practice donning saris which we hope to model tomorrow for
The kids.  The giggles and smiles were proof of how well the women have all bonded on the team.

During the evening conversation Stephen was apologizing for The many rain caused schedule Changes and disappointments. But then he pointed out that actually we are the Lucky Team:  bringing rain this time of year is critical for Southern India to Thrive.  Without rain now, volunteers would not be able to come in a few months as there would severe water shortages and drought.  Changes one's thinking about the minor inconveniences of rain.

From the Lucky Team with love
Barbara

Traditional Indian luncheon and dance

The noise and smoke from last night gave way to a very quiet night.  Phil,Kathy and I headed to our now favorite housewares store(aka you can find almost anything) to find supplies for the boys boxes as well as plasticware for the library.  We found the right rubber mat but only a me and n the store.  Just a minute they said, we will get more in 5 minutes.  I looked at Phil...he knew what I was thinking...likely we'd be there all day waiting.  Of course the wait allowed me to find a few more indispensable items.  A mere 10 minutes later, the stack of mats arrived, we finished up our purchases, and headed on our way to SEA with Phil carrying the mats on his head Indian style.

Arrival at SEAM allowed us to work on the boxes, using a drill and screwdriver together proving to be a "marriage encounter " as Phil and I were working on the same box.  All ended with smiles, and several boxes near completion.

On return to the guesthouse we were treated to a traditional Indian luncheon by Stephen and Sheeba.  Served on banana leaves we are our lunch with our hands.  It was a delicious assortment of curries and other Indian delicacies.

After our now usual afternoon siesta, we headed back to SEAM where we were treated to an exposition of traditional Indian dance. A Catholic priest who has been studying dance since age 10 held us spellbound while he did several traditional Hindu and Christian dances.  The boys at SEAM were entranced.  The evening ended with yet another round of firecrackers for the boys who couldn't get enough.  It is humbling to experience what great joy comes to those with so little from simple pleasures.


Thinking of all of you
With love
Barbara

Diwali: firecrackers and new clothes

When Phil and I were considering which country for our next service trip we read about Chennai and learned There was a Festival of Lights in November.  Great, we thought, we could experience a "quaint " Indian festival while we were here.  Little did we know that Diwali is a Huge  national holiday, although Himdu in origin, everyone gets in on the act. Schools and businesses are closed so that everyone can don their new clothes and shoot off smokey firecrackers and sparklers from dawn through the night.  Amazing to experience, definitely not quaint.

The morning brought dry skies and a return to SeaM where the boys welcomed us back with fervor. Then ensued several rounds of hokey pokey, duck duck goose and Simon Says before settling down for reading and math.  Meantime Kathy and Phil painted the out door walls and started putting the boys boxes, for their belongings , together.

A quick cleanup and we were on our way to lunch at Stephen's parents home.  They welcomed
Us
so graciously having prepared a traditional Indian meal for us. Their two bedroom home is quite sat to the guesthouse.  As the oldest son, it will be Stephen and Sheeba's responsibility to move in and care for the elders when necessary.

After a short neighborhood walk and rest, some
Headed back to SEAM for more firecrackers with kids and some went to the other orphanage, Assisi Illam, run by a nun.  With more Modern construction and facilities it looks
Like the Hilton compared to SEAM.  The kids were wild and crazy with all the Diwali excitement.  A crowd of preteen girls swarmed around Jane trying to teach her a few Tamil words.  More sparklers, firecrackers and bubbles and we returned to the guesthouse exhausted(and coughing from the smoke) The plan to watch more from The roof  was aborted when the skies opened up yet again.

During our afternoon   Walk Phil and I encountered kids, young adults, older
People, dog, cows and a horse.  The truly Remarkable thing was how friendly and warm everyone is.  Many photos were taken and stories shared.

Happy Diwali to all of you
With love
Barbara

Cyclone Megh and a day of rest

The rains were torrential all night with howling winds. The power was out on and off creating an eerie atmosphere in the main guesthouse.  After breakfast we made an attempt to get to SEAM to see the boys.  With branches down, lakes where roads used to be , and power lines down, Stephen made the wise decision to turn back.  We were left with some worry about the boys and what they would do all day.

Return to the guesthouse brought a cooking lesson by Sheba and a fascinating discussion of women's roles in India.  Until recently less than 10 per cent even went to school and most women still stay at home, spending much time in the kitchen and tending to the children.  Although things are slowly
Changing it is still quite difficult and those women who want to pursue professional careers find it quite hard.

With roaring winds and sheets of rain, Stephen declared the rest of the day to be a day of rest.  Those of you who know me well won't be surprised to hear that initially I found that a difficult concept:  nowhere to go? Nothing to do? Quickly I realized how lovely it was to sit inside, soothed by the sound of rain and drifted off for an afternoon nap.

By dinner time the rains had stopped and the people in the neighborhood started coming
Out, excited to shoot  off their first fireworks In honor of
The start of the Diwali festival.  Things were dry enough after dinner for a stroll and some
Shopping.  Funny how a day that started with sound and fury could end so peacefully.

On the home front, we were sorry
 to hear that my Uncle Walter is back in intensive care and that my mother isn't feeling too well. Thanks to all the siblings for rallying around and taking care of everything.

We feel blessed to have ridden out the storm, none the worse for the experience.

Love to all of you
Barbara

Walking , rock carvings and monsoon rains

What a treat to sleep late, have a leisurely breakfast and head out for a mri ing stroll.  The Bay of Bengal was rough and rowdy as we strolled by. We enjoyed a long walk through the streets of Pondicherry as the rain started and we stopped to buy an umbrella ($1.50).  Ponds is an oddixture of the usual crowded noisy India city with blocks with French influence with wider boulevards and cafes.  We ran out of time and had to forgo peeking into all the shops.

A long drive up the coast in pouring rain brought us to Mahalbalipunam, an ancient seaport with granite rock carvings.  After abit of hesitation we grabbed our umbrellas and headed out to see them and hear more Hindu stories.  These carvings are from
The 8th and 9thcenturies but are in great shape.  Not as intricate or artistic as later carvings at Angkor Wat but still extraordinary to experience .

A long windy rainy drive brought us back to our guesthouse in Chennai feeling refreshed and ready to teach this week, except for Phil who is sick with fever and a cold.  He is hoping to sleep it off by morning.

On a last note, we were thrilled to heartened that our niece is pregnant with twins, hard to believe we will welcome another set to the clan in May.  Very exciting.

Love to all of you from a very rainy Chennai
Barbara

Temples, Silk Factory and a city by the Sea

A downpour greeted us just as we were getting ready to head out for our weekend excursion.  No matter, Stepehn came by to fetch us and soon the skies cleared. After fighting our way through traffic, we headed South, fewer people, less trash, less traffic. Cows ambled on the roads, with roosters as companions.  The two hour drive to our first stop was an almost idyllic reprieve from planning and teaching.

We visited 4 Hindu temples, with Stephen as our guide.  These temples are enormous, and date back to the 800s.  There are very specific rituals to be followed, including walking toward the most sacred part of the temple in a counter clockwise direction.  Interestingly, the grounds are cared for by priest caretakers, are immaculate.  The first places we have been to without any trash.  One temple hosted a friendly elephant, who gladly accepted donations with his trunk.  Another temple showcases over a thousand lingams(do yo know what those are?).  Stephen entertained us with several Hindu myths includng the one about how Ganesh came to have an elephant head and human body.

After lunch at a lovely old hotel we had a fun time at the silk factory, I' ll leave to your imagination what everyone purchased, but suffice to say that all left with a bag in tow(some bigger than others)!

Finally, after 3 hours of crazy traffic, with more cows and roosters we arrive in Pondicherry.  For some reason, I thought it was a small seaside town, but as Phil reminded me, nothing in India is small.  There is a seaside, though, and it is lovely at night.  Our hotel is old and classic, and on a block that resembles Times Square!.  At almost 11pm, the horns are still blaring.  We enjoyed our first cocktails in the hotel bar before dinner, a special treat, since life in Chennai, is essentially "dry".  It was a great time to unwind and reflect on the events and impressions so far, and think about the week ahead.

Tomorrow morning brings the luxury of no alarm, a leisurely breakfast and then a visit to the seaside ruins and rock carvings. We will be back in our guesthouse in Chennai tomorrow evening.

Love to all of you from Pondicherry,
Barbara

Garbage everywhere and Phil gets a haircut

As our first week comes to a close we find ourselves having many interesting discussions with Stephen and his wife Sheeba.  Why is there garbage everywhere?  Even in the nicer areas?  Is it lack of infra structure?  Stephen says no, there
Is now daily garbage pick up.  He says its generations of habit and it will take years of education to clean things up.  Homeowners sweep their small front drives very day, while all around them is trash. Not any easy problem to solve especially when you have cows roing the streets freely.
One of the teachers at our School talked with Phil about the severe alcohol and domestic violence issues effecting the mothers and therefore their children. She said it makes it
Very hard to do well in school when things aren't going well at home.  Not a problem unique to India.

On arrival at school today we were greeted enthusiastically by our kindergarten class who now know our names and routines.  Still shy of speaking English they are definitely getting more comfortable and the older Kids are really making progress.  It was steamy hot and hard to concentrate but the kids persisted.  Clifford the Big Red dog was a particular hit.  The teen boys tested Phils memory on the Tamil words he learned yesterday then spent lunch hour
Discussing why I phones are better than Samsungs.

Hot and tired we had a brief siesta before heading to SEAM.  There we admired Karhy's newly organized library and the fresh coat of paint on the outside wall.  With growing excitement about the Diwali holiday on Tueasy the boys were distracted and tired but managed to draw pictures and do flash cards.  Phil slipped away and we later found him settled in the local
Barbers chair with a very short Haircut and enjoying an intense upper
Body and head massage.

It has been a week filled with new sights , sounds and smells.  The initial discomfort and anxiety about how to function, keep the electricity on, eat well and learn how to teach has faded.  It's been replaced by amazement at all we are learning and experiencing and with the hope that in some
Small ways we are helping these beautiful and happy children to succeed.

We leave early tomorrow morning for a
A much needed Break to see temples, rock carvings, ruins and the old French Colony town of Pondicherry.  More to come from there.

Love from India
Barbara

Everyone loves stickers and a word of encouragement

The morning started with a special treat: I just couldn't face more rice and curry for breakfast so we treated ourselves to muesli, fruit and yogurt!  Great way to start the day.   Arriving at school it was blazing hot until mid morning when the skies opened up and the monsoon rains cooled us off.  I won't detail our classes filled with laughter, song, hokey pokey, and Dr Suess but I will tell you that I was reminded if some simple truths:

• Everyone loves getting a sticker
• A kind word of praise for effort and achievement can't be beat
• Pencils and bright construction paper make up for no electricity, muddy floors and no technology 
• Phil does a mean version of "Shoulders, Head and Toes"
• Beautiful colors in clothing and in spirit have a way of eclipsing crowding and poverty 

The evening brought a return to SEAM where perhaps the most touching moment of the week occurred:  little Mugelan, the youngest of the SEAM kids, cuddling in Marty's lap while he learned his colors.

With much love and gratitude to all of you

Barbara

Shining faces with high energy and. Shoppers paradise

Arriving at school this am we were swarmed by laughing smiling kids in bright clean uniforms.  Phil and I had spent considerable effort last night( with an assist from Shari) planning our classes. Our kindergarten class started with conversation: what did you have for breakfast? To which the first several kids replied:"I am 5 years old", parroting yesterday's conversation!  Lesson learned:  repetition is the key to success, the 5 classes flew by rapidly with many renditions of Old McDonald had a Farm and the Hokey Pokey,  phil taught grammar and geography as well as a bit about snow sports. Cat in the Hat was a huge hit with the 4th grade set. These kids are eager and excited but their learning has primarily been by memorization.  We hope to help with pronunciation and conversation
as well as writing.
Meantime Jane has been enjoying her classes at her school while Kathy and Marty have been sweating it out preparing outside walls at SEAM home for painting.  Despite the heat and hard work as well as chaos with the kids, everyone's maintaining a great attitude.

After school the team headed out into Chennai to go to the government run arts cooperative.  Suffice to say that a couple of hours later Phil and I retur to the guest house with 4 full shopping bags.  Phil had to nap to recover while I went out to explore the local neighborhood a bit more.  For a huge and bustling city I found nothing but warm greetings and helpful hands.

With love to all of you from Chennai
Barbara

Teaching is exhausting and exhilarating

A loud knock on our door at 2am signaled the safe arrival of Marty and Jane.  After quick welcomes and updates we all drifted off to sleep.  Morning came quickly with a walk through the now familiar "hood" t breakfast with the team.  A complex schedule lead us to a variety of destinations.  Marty and Kathy scrubbed at washed walls at the SEAM home.  Jane and Jane (yes, two team members with the same name.) headed off to Christ School.
Phil and I, with Linda and Fred, headed for the PRS School.  After a very brief orientation by the principal, we plunged right in.  We taught 5 classes, kindergarten through 4th grade in rapid succession. The teachers were welcoming and the excited.  Well behaved, in school uniforms, their enthusiasm surpassed their comfort and knowledge of English conversation.  On the other hand they were attentive and eager , some with good vocabulary and lovely handwriting.  Phil and I pretty much  did improv all day: working our way through the ABCs, numbers, reading and of course the hokey pokey!  Phil used his lunch break to play a quick game of volleyball with the older boys. Exhausted after the 4th grade clas we is our goodbyes till tomorrow.  We are looking forward to working with these same kids for two weeks and really getting to know them.


After a peaceful afternoon siesta for rest and preparation for tomorrow aI headed back to SEAM to work individually with several boys.  After a warm greeting we got right down to work: flash cards and matching games revealed a fund of English vocabulary but poor reading and comprehension skills.  Lots to keep working on this week.

A delicious dinner with lively review of the day's events wrapped up a whirlwind of a day.  We have grown fond of our team and neighborhood and the kids have already stolen our hearts.

Love to all of you from Chennai
Barbara

No school:it's a rain day in Chennai

Monsoon like rains started in the middle of the night accompanied by electrical challenges.  By early morning the electrician had made repairs and the sun peaked through the clouds. We arrived at breakfast to discover that a "rain day" had been called.  Too muddy for school!  Stephen rearranged the schedule (in good team leader form) and we headed back to SEAM to entertain the boys. Our arrival resulted in immediate excitement and hugs and thus ensued a morning of games and books and Spider-Man stickers. Phil learned a new  board game:carom. The kids beat him every game.

Lunch was followed by a walk into "town" in search of pillows, shoes and a coffee pot. Town is a major tangle of crowded dirty roads with horns blaring, cows wandering and dogs hiding from the heat under cars. Merchandise is piled high in crowded stores with staff eager to help. After a very hot walk and expedition , successful in our purchases we enjoyed yet another afternoon siesta before heading back for dinner and another hour
 with the boys at SEAM.  They were happy to see us and my two lads easily beat me at a game of match.

We are eager to welcome Jane and Marty when they arrive late tonight.  It is hard to explain what it is like here:  crowded, noisy streets with oases of beauty and calm. The heat and humidity intensify everything.  Slowly we are settling into the rhythm here.

To our school assignments tomorrow.

With love from Chennai
Barbara

9 Boys in a Row:the team gets strated

It was pitch black as we headed up the narrow steps to the"extra " guesthouse our abode for the next two weeks.  A homey 3 bedroom apartment in a local home. Clean and tidy but sadly in need of some TLC.  Blessedly the wall air conditioners started up and we quickly unpacked, falling into a deep sleep after a very long but uneventful trip.

Morning came quickly with a walk to the main house for breakfast, introductions, and orientation by Stephen.  We learned about our projects and the community. It was great to greet old and new friends. Sudden fatigue overcame me and I fell asleep.  A delicious nap followed.  I think I was quite relaxed. There are some nice things about not being team leader.

Next came a visit to SEAM, one of the children's homes where we were greeted by 9 boys with smiling faces who quickly erupted into song.  Games and puzzles followed with promises to return tomorrow.


The day ended with a delicious vegetarian dinner, stops at the grocery store and pharmacy and a stroll back to the guesthouse.

So far I am overwhelmed by this old, cluttered, not very pretty town and by the hospitality and warmth of our hosts and the local people.

Off to bed now, with love to all of you
Barbara